We headed towards Uluru expecting to see a big, red rock but the experience was so much more than that. For a start, Uluru is not just big and red, but REALLY BIG and REALLY RED. In fact, it is surreal. It sits there awkwardly, like some novice tried to photoshop a big rock onto a picture of an otherwise flat landscape. And while it is mainly red, it is also, depending on the light, sometimes orange, sometimes purple, and for a few minutes before sunset even golden. For most of our time at the rock the weather was grey and drizzly and Uluru was a dull brownish red, but there were a few moments when the clouds parted and we saw it in its full glory. Sadly none of these moments were near dusk so we couldn't take that clichéd sunset photo.
What also surprised us was the vibrancy of the Aboriginal culture around Uluru and Kata Tjuta. The appropriation of "Ayer's Rock" by whitefellas was recent enough that the knowledge of its dreaming survived until "Uluru" was handed back to the traditional owners, the Anangu. Today the Anangu are willing to share some of the stories associated with the myriad of caves, crevices, water holes and other features around the base of the rock. Many more sensitive stories remain guarded, known only to initiated Anangu men and women. They also share the story of their struggle for ownership of their land and Uluru. Our experience of Uluru and Yuendemu has been both enlightening and challenging, especially for the girls, though it has prompted them to ask questions which we find difficult to answer.
The Anangu also never climb the rock and they ask visitors to respect their culture and do likewise. In their words "That's a really important, sacred thing...you shouldn't climb. It's not the proper thing. The proper thing is listening...It has been the same since the beginning...This is the proper way: no climbing." We were surprised how many people ignored this request and wondered how they would react if some Anangu entered St Mary's Cathedral and jumped up on the altar. For us Uluru was a place to be experienced, not an object to be conquered. We looked in vain for an "I didn't climb Uluru" t-shirt but alas couldn't find one.
We took a guided walk around the rock, spent some hours in the excellent cultural centre, then Nic and the girls did an art class where they learned more about the Anangu symbols and their meaning. They then used these symbols to tell their own story. Jarrah's painting showed our family sitting around a camp fire while Mallee and Nic painted stories about our trip. In the meantime, I went off to take some photos.
The next day we did a long walk around the almost as spectacular Kata Tjuta followed by dinner at the Yulara pub before turning our thoughts to the long trip home.
Uluru was an afterthought on this trip that was supposed to be primarily about the Pilbara and Kimberley, but it turned out to be one of the highlights.
We'll see you when the dust settles.
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| Just to prove we were actually there |
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| Nic and Jaz, Kata Tjuta |
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| Uluru spirits |
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| Some of the caves around Uluru |
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| Pool at Uluru |
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| Uluru finally in some sunshine |
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| Winners of the Kata Tjuta Bandy Legs Competition 2013 |
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| Uluru Cave |
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| Dull Red Rock |
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Uluru from the 'other side'
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| A Kata Tjuta stream | | | |
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| Yulara sunset |
