We met some travellers who had done their lap of Oz anticlockwise who warned us not to compare the gorges of the Kimberly to those of the Pilbara. As we walked through Windjana Gorge we were reminded of this good advice. The orange grey limestone of this gorge does not provide the breathtaking contrast with the sky which is typical the gorges of the Pilbara, but is nevertheless beautiful in its own right.
Windjana is also rich in history which is well documented and readily imagined. This is the country of the Banuba, at the time of colonisation one of the most densely populated places in Australia. It was also one of the last frontiers of settlement, a settlement that was vigorously resisted by its inhabitants. Prominent among the resistance leaders was Jandamara, who during the 1890s led a successful campaign against the incursions of the colonisers. The formidable limestone walls of the Balili (Napier Range) with its intricate crevices and caves were his refuge, particularly in the vicinity of Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) and Baraa (Tunnel Creek). As you walk through these places, it is easy to imagine Jandamarra and his band disappearing into the gorge walls when pursued by the hapless police. After many raids to try and capture or kill him, Jandamarra was finally shot by an equally skilled black tracker brought in from the Pilbara.
Another interesting contrast with the Pilbara is the presence of crocodiles. In the case of Windjana, only freshies, but nevertheless the girls seemed curiously less keen on swimming.
We'll see you when the dust settes.
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Tunnel Creek |
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Tunnel Creek |
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Entrance to Tunnel Creek |
Colours in the Limestone, Tunnel Creek
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Mertens monitor |
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Boab tree against the Napier Range |
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Entrance to Windjana Gorge |
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Mallee trying hard not to smile at a crocodile |
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Ritual sacrifice of the last born child |
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Windjana Gorge Resident |
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Tunnel Creek flowstone |
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Moonrise over Napier Range |
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Windjana Gorge
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Croc Facts:
ReplyDeleteCrocodiles are more related to birds than lizards.
There are two types of crocodiles, saltwater and freshwater.
Freshies bite people because they are scared.
Salties eat people because they are hungry
At Tunnel Creek I saw a freshie and I felt scared
Some awesome photography Geoff. Jarrah, I'm not sure I like Dad's comment about you and the croc! (Particularly when you were so close!). I would have been pretty scared myself especially after hearing that they bite when scared themselves!
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